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NoelG_123

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Reply with quote  #1 
Just purchased 500- 32 oz. (1qt) cups on amazon- about $85.00 with shipping. It's a several year supply. They are large enough to tape two together for cup and dome. I'm not convinced shielded bottom cups really make that much of a difference. I've done some reading and didn't find anything conclusive on how roots react to light. I don't keep cuttings in cups so long that they get rootbound and by the time I can see roots they are usually on their way to success. I know it's been discussed but if anyone has practical or (side by side) experience comparing bottom shielded cups to clear ones in the way they effect roots I'd appreciate hearing from you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HIRC60A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Reply with quote  #2 
Dang, I hate to be the first to answer.
Sunlight burns roots.
That plus if you use the source of sunlight, the black cup seems to absorb heat.
I have painted bottom cups.
...back to my closet....
Doug

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NoelG_123

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hey Doug. Yes I have heard that, but I start my cuttings indoors. I know you can cook air-layers if not careful, but have you done any side by side experiments indoors. I've heard the pat answer about burning the roots, but it would be interesting to hear real stories about failures using clear cups. It makes sense but just wondering. Thanks brother. Be well.
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tsparozi

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Reply with quote  #4 
I always place a large size brew coffee filter into the bottom of the outside cup. The large size effectively covers enough of the bottom to act as a light shield for developing roots and are inexpensive enough to use every time. They come in white and tan  so the choice is yours...
jrdewhirst

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Reply with quote  #5 
Excellent!  The cups look similar or identical to DD large iced coffee cups, which are my top choice for cuttings.  

Re light, I can see point that actual sunlight hitting the side of the cup might create a problem.  I've got mine under indoor lights, so all the light comes more or less from directly above.  Given the taper of the cup, the roots are almost entirely shaded by the upper width of the cup and by any leaves that develop.  And by placing the cups in tight rows, I also get the cups to shade each other.

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dkirtexas

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Reply with quote  #6 
I use the cheap red or blue Solo cups, not to protect the roots, because they are cheap.
I like the clear to see the roots develop but I don't look but once or twice.  I pull one or two cuttings to check root development.  If I am potting up and I encounter under developed roots, I put them back into the cups.  I do not keep them in cups as long as other people do, I try to get them in 1 gal trade pots as soon as possible.

Works for me.

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Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
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cjccmc

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkirtexas
I use the cheap red or blue Solo cups ... I try to get them in 1 gal trade pots as soon as possible.

Works for me.


Danny, what advantage do you get from the Solo cup phase, is it just for space savings?  How long typically before you transition to 1 gal?

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KK

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoelG_123
Just purchased 500- 32 oz. (1qt) cups on amazon



Anyone near Secaucus NJ can pick them up, 480 to a box

http://www.wyindustries.com/p_containers/index.htm



I root in 9oz cups with a tight fitting top

[Mt7icnO]

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Reply with quote  #9 
Noel, I have no doubt a bigger cup can work.
Here is what I found, when rooting 10+
cuttings at a time space is a issue trying to get them all under good lighting.
Bigger containers will take longer to show roots but will be fairly well established
when roots do show.
Cost was another issue for me, media can be expensive.
Failure to root, and what to do with the media of those
that did not root?
Does the size of the container increase time it takes to warm the soil?
Winter rooting has its own requirements, different than those air layered or rooted
during summer.
just my observations.

Doug

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Garrett4534

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Reply with quote  #10 
I started with clear cups because they were the cheapest and the sun in my window sil started burning the roots. The plans were wilted and dropping leaves. I transplanted into red solo cups and they came back and survived
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dkirtexas

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Reply with quote  #11 
I do not have enough room this time of the year (Winter) for 1 gal pots.  I currently have 800 cups with cuttings/seedlings (not all figs) and am in process of cupping another 300. After danger of frost I will up everything to 1 gal and 1 gal to 3 gal where applicable.
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Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
dkirtexas

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Reply with quote  #12 
In Noel's original posting he said:

"Just purchased 500- 32 oz. (1qt) cups on amazon- about $85.00 with shipping. It's a several year supply".

One major difference between hobbyist/enthusiasts and the more commercial operation is the quantities of everything, and it also drives methodology, I start the with 3000 cups on the shelf.  It prevents trips which saves time.

If I could, I would not use cups at all and would start everything in 1 gal pots.  One method that never gets "air time" is the use of table/trays with the cuttings stuck into common area media, saves space, not so much savings in time as you have to unravel the roots.  We grew hundreds of thousands of indoor ornamentals using this method

BTW - I would not even show up on the radar when compared to a "Real" grower.  When I was a youngster in Apopka Florida there were, and still are, greenhouse operations that cover 10's of acres, imagine what quantities they buy.

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Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
dkirtexas

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Reply with quote  #13 
Not belittling the hobbyist/enthusiasts, just making a comparison.
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Thx, glad to be here

Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
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