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TONYSAC

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Reply with quote  #1 
hi everyone I'm going to attempt an air layer I've order moss on line but i was wondering if anyone has ever had any success using plane old dirt in a bag/bottle method I'm figuring to use the dirt right around the tree since its already growing in it any suggestions on the dirt issue 
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Anthony
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ejp3

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Reply with quote  #2 

I have bent down a low growing branch and covered with dirt to form an air layer with good success.  For air layers up high on the tree I use moss.


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TONYSAC

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thanks i knew about the bending branch method i was just wondering if cutting the cambium layer and using just dirt could be an option theres times when all i have is a plastic bag or bottle etc and i find a tree while running around and was hesitant to knock on the door cause i didnt have moss etc 
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Anthony
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TONYSAC

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Reply with quote  #4 
BTW do you cut the cambium layer when air layering on the ground (bent branch) or just bury it a little no cuts on outside layer what has worked best for you 
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Anthony
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Taylor

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Reply with quote  #5 
I didn't have much peat moss, pearlite, or other soilless mix. So I mixed dirt with a little potting soil, peat moss, and pearlite. With this mix my two air layers did fine. Some of the roots did break when I was removing the tree from the plastic bottle and cup I used.
Tapla

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I layer off the tops of trees or use layering with soil to shorten trees all the time. As long as the medium holds moisture and is WELL AERATED, it will work fine.

 

Here's a tree that's being shortened via layering (on right):

 

I replaced a bad root system on this tree because the old root system was unsuitable for bonsai. You can still see the wire tourniquet and where the new tree was separated (just below the wire) from the old trunk. It was layered off in the gritty mix.

 

Here's how I prepare a tree to be layered off

 

The holes were drilled with a brad-point drill and will be filled with rooting gel. The zip ties constrict the downward flow of carbohydrates as the trunk thickens. The trunk swells significantly with stored carbohydrate and auxin immediately above the constriction, which promotes rooting. I like this method much better than wounding/girdling. I generally just use the gritty mix & make sure it stays moist. You can do the same thing with branches. I use it because it produces a perfect root buttress, which is greatly valued in bonsai - for that, it can't be beat. For my taste, it's too much of a hassle when all you need to do is clone plants that come easily from cuttings.

 

Al

 


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TONYSAC

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Wow thanks for the pics tapla very informative good job on the tree it looks great my brother does some bonsai trees hes always buying something and turning it into a bonsai 
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Anthony
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TONYSAC

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Reply with quote  #8 
Hey taylor how much of the cambium do you remove i was told 1in 4in 6in just some slits what has worked for you i was even told none no removal ??
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Anthony
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Taylor

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Reply with quote  #9 
I just scratched a thin layer around the whole circumference with a pocket knife. This was my first air layer. I am sure any of the above approaches will work though.
TONYSAC

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Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks for the info 
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Anthony
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BLB

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Reply with quote  #11 

Yeah there are more than a few ways to skin a cat or air layer a fig. Any method above will succeed.

Tapla

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Reply with quote  #12 

The general rule of thumb when using the girdling method is to remove all bark and cambium entirely, down to sapwood, from the branch being layered, for a distance equal to 1.5X the thickness of the branch at the layering location.

 

Al 


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The destroyer of weeds, thistles and thorns is a benefactor, whether he soweth grain or not. ~Robert Ingersoll
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Reply with quote  #13 

Thanks for the information, Al. Those are nice roots. How long did it take for that buttress to develop?

Tapla

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Reply with quote  #14 
Spring to spring for roots to show and another year of growing before the plant would stand on its own roots, so 2 years to develop what you see as roots on the maple (first 2 pics).

The nice part is you can place a tourniquet in the summer & start the layer anytime thereafter. Wrapping duct tape or electrical tape around the wood above the tourniquet gets root initials developing before the layer even starts, so initials are faster to appear after you start the layer. I like this method much better because the swelling above the tourniquet can be substantial, which helps create an impressive buttress on even young trees. I separated a Zelcova this spring that has an amazingly large buttress - I'm so pleased with it it's getting special attention.

Al

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The destroyer of weeds, thistles and thorns is a benefactor, whether he soweth grain or not. ~Robert Ingersoll
gorgi

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Reply with quote  #15 

As for the F.carica fig, air-layering is the most sure/quick way to propagate some.

It involves much more labor than (say) rooting cut-twigs.

I normally use rooter pots:

http://www.rooterpot.com/ingles/index1.htm

As for the soil, I usually use regular potting soil.

I think that (gasp!) girdling quickens the rooting process...

(the energy produced from the top leaves go towards them new roots?).

Usually, the new rooted plant is ready to be cut for the mother tree in ~4 weeks

(spring/early-summer time).


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TONYSAC

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Reply with quote  #16 
Thank you all for your input and support 
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Anthony
Garden city park, Long Island NY 11040 Zone 7b : 5 to 10 (F) (Nassau) FIGS4FUN1@aol.com Im here to help Crazy80z28 on Ebay
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MichaelTucson

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Reply with quote  #17 
I really enjoyed those photos and your description of your constriction technique, Al.  Great info.  It got me curious about why the constriction causes that to happen.  I found a few papers about what happens when phloem is blocked... e.g.

Regardless of the cell biology and chemistry (interesting in itself), it looks like a
great technique to get a really elegant root base.  Thanks for sharing it!

Mike     central NY state, zone 5

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baust55

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Reply with quote  #18 
hey tony how did your air layers turn out ?
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Read more mad non- scientist stuff ....check out my post on KITTY LITTER !

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