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Herman2

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Reply with quote  #1 
I was keeping notes on fruits development
in my climate and here it is how it goes.

=Stage one:Growing
Embryos as small as a rice seed can be seen at the base of leaves and they grow for 30 days till they get to a stagnant stage.
At stagnant  point depending on cultivar,they can be the size of a Bing cherry,to the size of a sugar pear.

=Stage 2:
Stagnant stage:In this stage they will be for 40 days doing nothing,just hanging on the Branch.

Stage 3:
Getting ripe:When they become older than 70 days,the fruits ,get swollen overnight,and almost double in size changing color from Green to yellowish white,for light skin cultivars and purple, blue, earthy, or black, for Dark cultivars.
After about 5 to 8 days in this stage the fruits droop down become very soft and the skin shrink a little.
This is when the fruit is ripe and can be harvested.
Harvesting differ if people like the fruit totally ripe or only half ripe,as they can be taken out sooner or later off the tree.
Some people like to leave them on till they dry on tree in warm dry climates,but if rain come they can spoil if left too long.
So from inception till ripe it takes 75 to 80 days in my NJ climate.
Hope this will help new Grower figure out when their figs will ripe.

Note:In order for me to insure my fruits will ripe in the Fall:I remove all fruits that are smaller than stagnant stage on August 15,as they will retard the maturation of the fruits that are already in the stagnant stage on that date.

Edit note :The above schedule is true only for main crop fig fruit,starting on new growth.
Breba grows and develop faster,on older branches,and they in fact are fig flower,not fruits.
Nightspell

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Reply with quote  #2 
Thank you, thank you, thank you!   I was beginning to think my cherry sized figs were just flat going quit doing anything.  I didn't know that they just hang out for so long.  I SOOO needed to hear that.

You are appreciated!!!!
JoAnn749

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Herman, mine are starting to ripen as I write!  I have new growth, 4 branches growing on the lower 12" of the tree.  These new branches range in size from 8" to 3" long. 

Since figs develop fruit on new growth, will these new branches produce figs since I have main crop that is starting to ripen now?

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Jo-Ann DFW TX, Zone 7b-8a Wish List: Black Madeira,, Kathleen's Black, Malta Black, Marseille VS Black, White Paradisio, LSU Scott's Black, Conadria, White Trianna, Marttineca Rimada, Excel, Peter's Honey, Bebera Preta (Abebereira), Strawberry Verte
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #4 
In Texas the Summer is long so I can see that it is possible fruits will grow and ripe on the Branches growing now.
It is not a done deal till you see the fruits,and also if they will have time to ripe ,from that point on.
JoAnn749

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks Herman, any ideas on the variety I have?  Everyone seems to agree it's NOT Celeste.
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Jo-Ann DFW TX, Zone 7b-8a Wish List: Black Madeira,, Kathleen's Black, Malta Black, Marseille VS Black, White Paradisio, LSU Scott's Black, Conadria, White Trianna, Marttineca Rimada, Excel, Peter's Honey, Bebera Preta (Abebereira), Strawberry Verte
mnedelcu

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Reply with quote  #6 
Great notes,Herman.Thank you !
slingha

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Reply with quote  #7 
Herman,

So you dont pinch off new figs after date "x"? You just let them all grow until mid-august?
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #8 
I did pinch off them continuously in the previous years but that aproach is too much time consuming,so This year I will wait till August 15,and at that point any fruits that are smaller,younger than the figs in the stagnant stage will be removed.
This way it is easier for me to recognize them.
Of course after August 15,I will need to keep removing all the brand new embryos,that will come up,so the removal of young figs continue,to the end of season.
On August 15 another work must be done on the fig trees:The removing of any branch or suckers,that does not have any figs on them.
This need to be done in order for the sun to penetrate the canopy better and ripe fruits faster.
Those Branches were helping the fig tree cope with 100+ F temperature in July and first half of August but at this point they are of no more need as the second part of August the Summer is much cooler with temperature under 90F.
theman7676

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Reply with quote  #9 
thank you H2
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Tonycm

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Reply with quote  #10 
I'm glad someone takes notes. I've been wondering if some of the figs starting to grow now would ripen. You've taken the guess work out of it now. Thank you for sharing that information with us. I'm sure a lot of other people have been wondering about how long it takes for a fig to ripen from start to finish.
Once again, THANK YOU! for the detailed info.

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Jackster

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Reply with quote  #11 
Herman, if I have embryos at this date 7/1, I have a fair chance of them getting to the ripening stage?
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #12 
The answer is yes,no doubt you will ripe fruits,yes.
JoAnn749

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Reply with quote  #13 
I'm a little confused about this; if the tree continues to grow and produce figs, why and how do some varieties have a 2nd crop?  isn't it a continuation of the tree growing and yielding fruit similar to indeterminate tomatoes? 
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Jo-Ann DFW TX, Zone 7b-8a Wish List: Black Madeira,, Kathleen's Black, Malta Black, Marseille VS Black, White Paradisio, LSU Scott's Black, Conadria, White Trianna, Marttineca Rimada, Excel, Peter's Honey, Bebera Preta (Abebereira), Strawberry Verte
go4broek

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Reply with quote  #14 
Good to know info, Herman. Thanks! In your research, which variety did you find ripened its main crop fastest and which was slowest and by how much?
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Ruben
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Wish List: Dalmatie, Italian 258, Martin's Unknown (not the Italian), CdD-N, NdC, Signora, Latarolla, Stella!
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dhsandberg

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Reply with quote  #15 
I was about to ask how to deal with my very first crops and you gave a wonderful description of how to handle them.  Thank you.

Dennis

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Herman2

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Reply with quote  #16 
Common fig trees can possible have 2 crops.
I say possible because some only have one crop (main),with no Breba crop!
Breba crop usually small in numbers and it staRT growing, Late in Winter,on old Branches,and ripe in July.
Main crop ,grows on new Branches later start in late May and continue to grow till frost.
Of course new embryos will come up, till frost,but only the early ones get ripe in most climates,the rest needs to be removed out by Grower in the manner described above ,if they come out late and there will be no time to ripe till frost come.
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #17 
Well Ruben:Not all my tree are adults,to know when they ripe their main crop fruits.
A fig tree is adult after 7 years just like Grape vine do.
That is when it set fruits properly at the earliest time possible.
When young it set fruits later than normal and so one can't judge if the cultivar is late or early.
If it is infected with Fig mosaic virus,it will forever form fruit embryos later than a healthy fig.
Judging from the few cultivars I have over 5 years old,the earliest to ripe are:
Malta Black
Tacoma Violett
Gino's fig
Marseilles black VS
Sal (Gene strain,)
Hardy Chicago
Improved Celeste(O'Rourke not)
Atreano
Stella
These are written down in order that they produced visible Embryos,in late May and first part of June.
All of them have Fruits in the stagnant stage,now(some fruits,not all)
Last year with all that rain in the wrong time the first that got ripe was ST Anthony!,this year is not that advanced but it does have fruits of cherry size.(surprise)
Dieseler

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Reply with quote  #18 
Herman lists Malta Black top of his list and in its second season here i will taste some ripe figs a good grower and i have a very good feeling about this fig in my climate in future seasons.
Also he states when tree is young crop comes later and as it matures they start to come earlier.
He is spot on.
Remp

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Reply with quote  #19 
great thread, thank you Herman!
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go4broek

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Reply with quote  #20 
Thanks, Herman!
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Ruben
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Wish List: Dalmatie, Italian 258, Martin's Unknown (not the Italian), CdD-N, NdC, Signora, Latarolla, Stella!
Check out my online journal @ http://davesgarden.com/community/journals/vbc/go4broek/83546/
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #21 
Martin:Malta Black climbed up in first place on it's own merit,now that is 5 years old.
It is a  fig that is still a secret how good it is in taste and Flavor,and how easy is to grow.
It is time the secret comes out!
Here is Malta Black:Notice the fruits in stagnant stage large size already!
Notice the Large three lobes leaf and lack of any disease.
Pix is taken today,tree in ground,spent Winter with mulch under it only.

 

Attached Images
jpeg DSCN2098.JPG (112.88 KB, 205 views)

BLB

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Reply with quote  #22 
Great looking tree Herman, as usual. This variety does sound like a winner. 
Darkman

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Reply with quote  #23 
Thanks Herman,

Never knew about stages. I just thought they kept getting bigger till they were ripe. Really good news as I have some quarter size figs that have been that way about amonth and I thought they were not ripening. Now maybe!

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Charles in Pensacola AKA Darkman
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Winter of 09/10 low 19
Winter of 10/11 low 19
Winter of 11/12 low 29
Winter of 12/13 low 31
Winter of 13/14 low 19
rchukka

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Reply with quote  #24 
Herman,

This is my first year of growing fig tree, your OP was very helpful. Regarding the color of fruit, my supposedly Black Mission and Black Jack trees (planted May 2011) had their first crop last month but during stage 3 they were yellowish white, is it possible for these cultivar to be in this color?.

Thanks.

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pyxistort

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Reply with quote  #25 
Herman,

Thank you for sharing the information.  It is great to learn the different stage of fig development. 

For the Malta Black, is it going to perform well in mild summer weather, average high is only 76 degree.  Thanks!

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Herman2

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Reply with quote  #26 
Scott:Your climate will only ripe a few cultivars.
Malta shown  has shown to be one of the earliest to form fruits .
It is early to ripe too.
If I was you I would give it a try.
rchukka
Your Figs are not B Mission and Black Jack
rchukka

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Reply with quote  #27 
Thanks Herman, I bought them from Willis Orchard Company last year before I knew about this forum, contacted them, waiting for reply.
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pawpawbill

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Reply with quote  #28 
Herman, just wanted to bump this and say thank you. This will be my first year to harvest figs. I found this info so helpful this time of year

Bill
Herman2

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Reply with quote  #29 
Surprise again ,Here:
This Spring,the embryos started to appear a Week later,compared to last year.
Last year I had new Embryos on May 25,this year,I had embryos,on my earliest trees on June 1st.
It seem the Spring was slower to start.
drphil69

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Reply with quote  #30 
Great tree Herman!
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Frank_The_Tank

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Reply with quote  #31 
Hi all...this is a very interesting read.  I have figs for the first time this year...had the tree for several years now.  Currently I have about 15 figs in what I would estimate as the Stagnant stage.  I have another 15+ that are in the growing stage. 

So...I live in upstate, NY...and I am concerned if I wait for the whole process to play out I may not get to the final fruit stage.  What would you all suggest I do going forward? 

Just a note: friends have told me to try poking a toothpick into the bottom of the figs with some olive oil on it (it works for them).  I guess the theory is you are damaging the fruit and it will speed up the ripening process?  The oil protects the damaged area.  Anyone hear anything about this?  Thoughts/suggestions?

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fignutty

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Reply with quote  #32 
Forget the oil. It speeds ripening but reduces eating quality. You're best bet next yr is to get the trees started growing as soon as possible.
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Figgysid1

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Reply with quote  #33 
The olive oil works, but only in specific window of time. The fruit needs to be close to being ripe >3 weeks from ripening naturally. The fruit swells and ripens faster than normal, 4-5 days vesus 6-8 days. It also has a reduced sugar content/flavor of 30%+.

So it would only be useful as a last resort. If the weather were predicted to get cold enough to ruin the crop in 10 days. You could rub oil on them now. Some may then ripen before that time, but with reduced flavor.

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jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #34 
Hi,
Normally, you should have time. 15th of august has yet to come.
Because you're in Zone5, you may want to have a greenhouse, just like some do it for citrus trees in London.
What strains did you select ?
You probably are using pots, or ?

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Frank_The_Tank

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Reply with quote  #35 
Thanks all!  Additional info - I have no idea what fig I have, a cutting was given to me by a friend and I am not sure they know what they had either.  I am from a town in upstate, NY that several Italians came to back in the early 1900's and they brought trees with them.  I believe all of the figs we have derive from those.  My tree is potted...so I can still move in and out when the weather gets worse. 

Fignutty - I got them out as early as possible this year...end of March.  I attribute the fact that I have figs at all to this...I usually wasn't great about getting the fig out at the right time or I put it in the wrong spot.  I think I have a system down now. 

Figgysid1 - thank you, that is good info!  So, you are saying just rub oil on them?  I was told to prick the bottom of the fig...I believe in an effort to damage the fig, the oil was just to protect the wound.  But...all this info in passed down through the years, so it is like the telephone game.  Not sure what is true and what is not...

jdsfrance - what is the reference to August 15th?  I do not have a greenhouse, and I only have 1 tree, so unless I take on more plants I am not sure that is an option right now.  Also, as I said above, I have no idea what strain I have...here is a picture of the tree if you have any idea let me know.
fig1.png 



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jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #36 
Hi,
From Herman's post#1 :
------------
Note:In order for me to insure my fruits will ripe in the Fall:I remove all fruits that are smaller than stagnant stage on August 15,as they will retard the maturation of the fruits that are already in the stagnant stage on that date.
------------
Good luck !

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Frank_The_Tank

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Reply with quote  #37 
got it...thanks!
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Figgysid1

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Reply with quote  #38 
This explains it well.

http://www.wvgazettemail.com/article/20150916/ARTICLE/150919611/2007020921

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