Persimmon is low care relative to a lot of trees and most people don’t spray them at all. They are one of my favorite fruit to grow. Your biggest concern if borderline 6/7 would be cold hardiness, but many people zone 6 grow them without issues, The biggest problem I have had was a late spring cold spell after last years very warm winter, I had probably 4 cultivars that I thought I was going to taste for the first time but everything was in full bloom when hit, and many were just planted last spring and many were knocked back.
As to taste I like both astringent and non-astringent. The non-astringent (you can eat when hard) I find most cultivar similar in taste if picked at the same stage of ripeness. The astringent differ a little more in taste and texture to my palate. I have tasted a lot more cultivars then those from my own trees. If you are looking for Scionwood I can provide some for you. If you want you could stop by my plantings some time as you stated you are in my area.
Below is a readout I posted on another forum regarding how the cultivars did in after a relative light freeze LATE freeze.
In review of the damage of late spring light freeze around 27 F after extended warm spring. I had 30+ trees in ground, but only one of most cultivars which is not sufficient to fully evaluate. In particular when the cultivar I have multiples of did not all fare the same. I have Fuyu from 5 different sources, although one appears to me to be Jiro (called Fuyu sometimes on west coat). For instance 2 Fuyu trees planted 15 feet apart from same source same day in 2009 seemingly identical in vigor and health. One tree dead to the ground with only below ground rootstock shoots recovering, the other total loss of foliage but minimal wood damage and fully re-leafed. With that in mind below is report of how my different cultivars seemed to manage the late freeze after growth had started. I don't recall which cultivars were just breaking bud as opposed to being fully leafed but I believe that probably factored in damage. My plantings are located in small creek valley of bottom land with high ridgeline to both sides. My setting/micro-climate is not ideal, but my bottom land is cleared and my higher sloping land is fully forested so it's the space I have available present. I plan on moving later this year to a location I can reside with my plantings. My current plantings are about an hour drive from my residence, and initially I hope to manage both sites. Probably too much information but the difference in temperature in within a few hundred feet with a elevation change can be significant and I believe is more informative then the actual cultivar results.
All trees were completely defoliated with the exception of Rosseyanka and Tamopan. Rosseyanka was not a surprise faring the best, but Tamopan was. Again limited data(1 tree) is of limited value.
Fuyu - In general my Fuyu took more damage then most, 2 trees took minimal wood lose, 3 trees totally lost above graft, and others took significant wood loss. The reason I have so many Fuyu trees, as it is the most widely available tree and among my oldest trees aging from 2009 2010
Matsumoto Wase Fuyu - 2010 trees 1 tree dead to graft, 1 tree major wood loss, 1 tree limited wood loss
Izu - 1st year tree limited wood loss, 2010 Fuyu grafted over to Izu limited wood loss
Eureka - 2010 tree moderate wood loss
Great Wall - 2010 tree minimal wood loss
Saijo - 2010 tree minimal to no wood loss
Tamopan - 2009 tree retained around 50% foliage minimal wood loss. Abnominally? Never heard this tree reported as hardy, but it is an older larger tree, but so were the Fuyu beside it.
Jiro - 2010 tree lost to below graft
1st year tree limited wood loss
Rosseyanka Retained significant foliage, maybe no wood loss
1st year tree significant wood loss
1st year tree Major wood loss
Unknown Huge PCNA
Young grafts still in pots protected
Giomba (same as Giombo? Listed separate on UC Davis source site)